"Looks
the same, smells the same, feels the same.
You’ll realize what’s changed is
you.”
Benjamin Button
"Myammmmy", wow what a place. So much is the same yet a great deal is different since my last visit 25 years ago. Back then I was young and alone, just starting out on my traveling journey, now I have returned to Miami as a mommy. I am definitely older, but have I become wiser?
I pondered my own evolution as the early morning sunshine illuminated the city and the passage of time also became evident in the city scape. The concrete skyscraper jungle scattered around aqua marine waterways had grown and sprawled further onto the horizon. Almost unrecognizable, the downtown area had been regenerated into cleaner streets, paved parks and waterfront tourist hubs.
It was reassuring to still find some of the older architecture dotted amongst the mirrored multistories. Dade Tower created the illusion of a city with a long history. It was comforting to hear the thrilling roar of the oversized speed boats still plying the air.
"Almost everything strange washes up near Miami."
Rick Riordan
The beach goers, the high-rises hotels and the cruise ships had all expanded too, ever larger, taller, wider. The waterfront homes with their flotilla of yachts tethered in front had encroached further into the parades of palm trees. Even the sky seemed bluer and the sun brighter than I remembered.
Or could it be that life and light are simply larger and louder in America? After our uncomplicated beach existence in Ecuador the sights and smells of this vibrant city invaded every sense. Perhaps I was overcome with US culture shock? Although after 3 months away it was reassuring to return to the familiarity of America.
Either way arriving into Miami on only a couple of hours sleep was not a pretty sight. If you're waiting for the hotel breakfast buffet to open you know you've arrived a tad early. If your kids look at your coffee with real envy you know that next time the travel plans need to be scheduled for later.
After breakfast we sat in the hotel lobby waiting for our room. I lazily watched the Intercontinental slowly come to life and observed the essence of human nature. In the mania of the city it is all too easy to forget that the hotel receptionist or the man hauling your luggage is in fact a person. Each with their own life, their own family, their own destiny and for a mere fleeting moment of time their path crosses with yours. Is such a brief encounter meaningless? Just a disposable interaction, where taking a moment to smile or look into a person's eyes could be a waste of time if efficiency is your goal. With Ecuador fresh in my mind I was moving in a slower state of conscience. Having a chat with the gal at the front desk definitely paid off though, because we were assigned a room with a stunning view over the water and enough room to swing several cats.
While the kids fought over who would shower first I sipped on yet more coffee and gazed at the armada of cruise ships docked in the port. They had arrived earlier than even us, silently slipping into dock. Each boat spewing out their passengers so the crew could spend the day furiously cleaning and restocking in order start the floating hotel check in all over again. We would learn the evening departures were a much louder event of blasting horns and a mass exodus race out to the horizon.
Once fed and watered we were revived and my thoughts wandered to poor Greg enduring yet more flights on his way to California. In that instant I missed his presence in all the memories the kids and I were about to make. Now we were three not four. I was back into role of both judge and jury and my unfavorite cameo as homeschool despot. In the spirit of all dictatorships I decided to press home my advantage while the kids were still sleep deprived and forced them into some retail therapy.
With the inevitable feet dragging we trailed along the boardwalk to Bayside. Meandering along we watched the wind whip up some whitecaps in the channel. The breeze cooled the hot burn of the sun and it felt good to be alive. Jasmin particularly sprang back to life at the thought of possible purchases.
Josh persuaded us to return later that evening for cocktails/smoothies and dinner. I am beginning to realize the kids have great taste.
"Miami Beach is where neon goes to die"
Lenny Bruce
With over 6 million visitors a year we knew Saturday at South Beach could prove a tad busy. However as a home school educator I decided this was a life education that the kids should not miss.
The tourist hordes pressed forward and spilled off the pavements as we slowly shuffled along Ocean Boulevard. It was difficult to step back to look up at the art deco buildings. Amazing to think that only 130 years ago this was a coconut farming island. Now it's a hot sticky crush of humanity with everyone holding their hand out for a tip.
With the boom time of the 1920's came the art deco. From then until now there has been several revitalizations of this island connected to the mainland by bridges. Now, the South American population particularly Brazilians are pushing the visitor numbers up beyond anything imagined.
I loved looking at all the old cars and imagining the South Beach of old.
If you sit long enough in a cafe on Ocean Boulevard on Miami's South Beach you will see every walk of humanity pass you by in every type of vehicle. Unfortunately, our budget did not stretch to a gold jeep. Sorry kids we were down to pedal power only.
After sweating it out along the boardwalk it was finally time to take a dip in the Atlantic. This ocean is deeper and greener than the Pacific but we didn't care, we just wanted to get wet.
These kids find surf where ever they go. Their confidence in the waves is enviable.
If I’m not careful Josh just may find a job as a life guard. Not an easy job on such a crazy party beach where cube amplifiers crank out music and the ocean is littered with swimmers. I watched with trepidation as the jet skis zoomed in and out through designated channels.
A taxi back to the hotel and a quick dip at the pool rounded off our time in Myammy. Tomorrow we were bound for the port to find our cabin and hear our cruise ship’s horn blast out a farewell to these shores.
Miami, a place where the palm trees sway to an eclectic beat of Latino and
Caribbean tastes, a setting of distinct architecture and aqua marine waterways with old cars and fast boats. Where humanity
crushes together beneath the sultry clouds of Florida sunshine.
"Be thou the rainbow in the storms of life.
The evening beam that smiles the clouds away, and tints tomorrow with prophetic ray."
Lord Byron
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